Shorty Beta from a 5ft1 Climbing Physio who gets it

Content

  • The Approach

    Focusing on what you can influence
    - Strength & Mobility
    - Movement Skills (Jumping, Dynos, Weighshifting, Route Reading)
    - Which problems/ routes you choose, your climbing group

    Staying curious and trying most things, they may surprise you!

    TIP: can be handy to also know your wingspan side ways and overhead reaching in the number of bolt holes. So this way when you are route reading you can prepare for reachier sections ahead of time! More about this here!

  • Where to be mobile

    Focus Point: Hips & Upper back
    High Stepping drill for 8-10 reps each direction
    90 90 hip flow drill + side to side lunges for 30-60 seconds of each slow + controlled
    Upper Back mobility drill - Star for 5-8 reps each side depending where you feel most restricted (initiate with the hands, keep the reaching motion and return back with the legs

    *can be done pre/ post climbing every other day

  • Where to be strong

    Think movements not muscles
    Wide span shoulder positions + lock offs for short 5-10 sec holds x 8-10 reps
    Single Arm pull (progression) or regression
    for 6-8 reps each side, 3 rounds

    High Step in turnout 3x 6-8 on each side

    • digging through the heel

    • using the band as much as you need but as little as possible

    Strength can be done post climbing or on a separate day 2 x week

  • All things Dynamics!

    Off the wall introducing tricep strength, squatting as well as jumping and rolling practice

    On the wall

    • Dead points: starting from flatter walls to steeper, increasing complexity by adding a diagonal reach

      Example 1: Single arm

      Example 2: Diagonal reach (ensuring you hit the hold engaged)

    • Practising the upside down question mark on flat walls -> steeper

    • Off the wall: practising bar jumps engaged at the shoulder

  • Bouldering Warm up Ideas

    Bouldering Warm-up Ideas

    1. Cardio option for 2 mins e.g. the rower in Annex

    2-3 rounds of the following:

    1. Hip opener of choice: can do the 90 90 hip flow or the side lunges as above and some step ups onto small box for 6-10 reps

    2. Bear Crawls/ Lizard crawls moving forwards x6

    3. Something with pull e.g. a ring row or the ring holds as above for 5-6 reps

    4. Light Hangboard warm up on the jugs and large edges (if already familiar with the hangboard)