Many of us would be familiar with hang-boarding for strength, but what about for recovery? Minimums are like a light recovery stroll for the hands to promote recovery and help with limiting stiffness in the fingers particularly the morning after a climb.

We are not pulling as hard as we can simply light loading <10-20% of body weight for short periods of 7-10 seconds with up to a minute break in between. Repeated 6-8 times.

These can be completed in a variety of grip types from 1/2 crimp to drag to even full crimping. However 1/2 crimp is often the most popular. If using a hang-board these can be done on the 20-30mm edges, same with if using the finger block and doing no hangs.

The hang-board has the added benefit of incorporating the arm as a whole in a more climbing specific position therefore targets shoulders, elbows and fingers. The finger block on the other hand can isolate the fingers that little bit more yet still also requires activation around the elbow and forearm.

Personal preference to whether you choose a hang board or a block. It often comes down to what it available at home or at your local training area. The best method for you is the one are you able to complete most consistently.