A Climber’s Healthy Finger Guide

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  • Start Here - How to get the most out of the Climber's Healthy Finger Guide
    10/7/24

    Start Here - How to get the most out of the Climber's Healthy Finger Guide

  • Part 1: Finger Recovery Post Climb
    10/1/24

    Part 1: Finger Recovery Post Climb

  • Part 2: Upstream Mobility (Shoulders & Upper back)
    10/1/24

    Part 2: Upstream Mobility (Shoulders & Upper back)

  • Part 3: Let's look at wrists & forearms
    10/1/24

    Part 3: Let's look at wrists & forearms

    If forearm rotation is limited this range of motion is limited due to tightness up in the forearms or a previous wrist injury we may often be needing to create range elsewhere i.e. from the fingers or higher up from the elbow.

     

    There are many ways to address this rotational deficit and it is important to determine why it is there in the first place, this is where a climbing health professional can help!

     

    Wrist rotations with band

    Tip: Starting with working through comfortable ranges for 3x 6-8 repetitions (make sure you rest your elbow on something)

     

    Wrist extension with KB

    Wrist extension strength creates a stable base for all of our gripping to take place from. If we are lacking strength here, we are going to be placing extra loading on our fingers.

     

    This KB exercise builds static wrist extension strength, choose a weight where you can best maintain form for 3x 6-8 reps moving through a comfortable range

     

     

     

  • Part 4: Minimums on a Hang board/ No hangs
    10/1/24

    Part 4: Minimums on a Hang board/ No hangs

    Many of us would be familiar with hang-boarding for strength, but what about for recovery? Minimums are like a light recovery stroll for the hands to promote recovery and help with limiting stiffness in the fingers particularly the morning after a climb.

     

    We are not pulling as hard as we can simply light loading <10-20% of body weight for short periods of 7-10 seconds with up to a minute break in between. Repeated 6-8 times.

     

    These can be completed in a variety of grip types from 1/2 crimp to drag to even full crimping. However 1/2 crimp is often the most popular. If using a hang-board these can be done on the 20-30mm edges, same with if using the finger block and doing no hangs.

     

    The hang-board has the added benefit of incorporating the arm as a whole in a more climbing specific position therefore targets shoulders, elbows and fingers. The finger block on the other hand can isolate the fingers that little bit more yet still also requires activation around the elbow and forearm.

     

    Personal preference to whether you choose a hang board or a block. It often comes down to what it available at home or at your local training area. The best method for you is the one are you able to complete most consistently.